Puerto Escondido: More than just the world’s best surfing

View of Puerto Escondido

Into every life, a little rain must fall….but if you have wearied of the endless rain and grey skies, perhaps it is time to visit Puerto Escondido….

Surrounded by verdant tropical forests, blessed with endless white sand beaches and warm, sun-kissed ocean waters, Puerto Escondido will restore the body and soul of any rain-soaked Canadian traveler.

Puerto Escondido, or “Hidden Port”, began as a sleepy Mexican fishing village along the Oaxacan Emerald Coast. Even into the 1970’s the town only had 400 inhabitants. Despite a growing numbers of tourists, the area still possesses a laid back charm and distinctly Mexican culture while offering every amenity to a discerning traveler.
Following his heart and starting with a small piece of bare land in the early ‘90’s, Canadian Dan Clemans has crafted the quintessential Mexican hotel experience. Hotel Casa de Dan is an inviting and charming 15 suite hotel that is the “go-to” hotel for surfers and others who appreciate a tropical ambiance married to down-home Canadian friendliness. Many of the guests make themselves right at home in Dan’s kitchen, even though all the rooms come equipped with kitchens, bathrooms and most have private terraces. Don’t we all gravitate to a friendly kitchen? There’s free wifi, a long lap pool and a small restaurant that serves the best French toast in Mexico along with fresh blended Tropicale fruit drinks.

Surfing Puerto Escondido

There are many beaches and coves in the area but the one that attracts the most attention is Playa Zicatela, known as the Mexican Pipeline, to the south of the main part of town. Classed as one of the ten best surfing areas in the world, Playa Zicatela hosts international tournaments that attract the top echelon of surfers. When you tire of watching the awe inspiring twenty foot waves and the athletes who passionately engage in their sport, there are other sea-blue and aquamarine waters in protected bays, in which you can safely swim, snorkel or try your hand at novice surfing.

If the sight of exuberant flowering plants, exotic birds and flying jewels stir your heart, there are many eco-adventures at your doorstep. Mexico is a hothouse of biodiversity and there are thousands of  species of birds and of  butterflies or “mariposas” in the Oaxaca region. Just down the road, the Colotepec River empties into the Pacific. Most of the year the river is shallow and slow-moving and you can wander in through the stream course and catch glimpses of a fantastic display of birdlife and butterflies.

A few kms north is the Laguna de Manialtepec, a lush oasis of wildlife; a mangrove lagoon teeming with birds, iguanas, butterflies, even crocodiles. You can easily arrange boat tours and kayak rentals from knowledgeable locals (Lalo tours) and satisfy your inner wild spirit.

El Jardín Botánico

The local university (Universidad del Mar Campus Puerto Escondido) has placed a real focus on understanding and protecting local ecology and resources and have started a 17 ha interpretive conservation area, El Jardín Botánico. The free guided tours, led by well-informed English speaking students, explain the different plants and animals and their roles in the forests and benefits they can supply to local communities, outside of simple harvests. Well worth the visit.

According to expat Calgarians Glenda and Lorne Marr, who had traveled throughout Mexico over a twelve year period, “You simply can’t beat the weather here.. and we don’t have hurricanes. We feel very safe and the people here are the most lovely you will ever meet”. They relocated to Puerto Escondido in 2009 and have since opened a Re/Max franchise. Glenda enthuses “The mercado (market) is the best I have ever seen. Fresh vegetables, fruit, seafood and more arrive daily… and the prices are incredible. Weekends are especially fun as farmers come down from mountain areas and sell unique offerings that we don’t get during the regular week. I also love the fact that I can have amazing, tropical flowers in my house for only $5. dollars!!!  Another great find is buying fresh fish right from the boats on the beach at Playa Principal. This is an early morning event but you can’t beat the selection, freshness and ridiculously low prices!  Our favorite restaurant is “Caracoles” which is owned by a couple from Oaxaca City. I took my husband there for his birthday dinner and we had a three course GOURMET meal, including dessert, a bottle of wine and they gave us a complimentary Mezcal.. and the bill was only $320 pesos.. that is only $26 dollars… just incredible!”

Puerto Escondido has a thriving ex-pat community and it’s easy to get by if your Spanish is a little rusty or even non-existent. Everyone is gracious and friendly and patient and you soon learn the basics that will keep you well fed and get you from A to B. The magic and hospitality of Puerto Escondido and the people who call it home make leaving Mexico the most difficult part of your journey.

Cary Mullen, a former two-time Canadian Olympian and Word Cup Downhill Champion and now a Calgary based developer decided it was time to live somewhere warm and embarked on a multi-year quest to find the perfect place to develop his ideal beachfront resort. He is now developing Vivo Resorts, Puerto Escondido’s first beachfront community with a full suite of resort amenities offering upscale beachfront condos and villas. The majority of Vivo owners are Canadian and includes other high profile athletes from alpine skiing and NHL fame.  Mullen is quick to point out the benefits of Puerto Escondido over most other resort destinations in Mexico; there is a more authentic and culturally rich experience, a better climate, and many outdoor  activities, either on the beach, the ocean, the lake or in the mountains.

Puerto Escondido has a thriving community and a wealth of opportunities for people of all ages. From amazing local produce, to local businesses promoting environmental care ,to the many activities available for athletes of all skill levels, the vibe of Puerto Escondido is one of laid back good times; some might even say it’s a beachfront utopia.